Leanne and I

Leanne and I

Monday, September 28, 2015

Chester and York


Leanne had a dinner meeting in Chester on Thursday night so I met up with her there on Friday. It was a 3/4 mile walk from the train station to the hotel Leanne was staying at, on the way there were a few sights to see. The first thing I saw were the Public Bath on (what else) Bath street. They are two pools one for diving and one for competitive swimming and water polo.













After that I walked by an old (of course its “old”) Roman amphitheater.  The amphitheatre, which was built in the 1st century, could seat between 8,000 and 10,000 people. It is the largest known military amphitheatre in Britain.








In and around the amphitheatre there were school kids that must have been doing day trips here. The guides were dressed like Roman soldier and the kids (3rd to 5th grade) were given plastic roman shields. The guide would have them march around and explain what it was like to be in the roman army. It was a very interesting history lesson.









 A nice walk around town and I finally got to the hotel and met up with Leanne. From our hotel room we could see the horse racing track.  This track is according to official records is the oldest racecourse still in use in England. It dates back to the 16th century, the first recorded race was held February 9 1539.






From the hotel we started our walk of the Chester wall. The wall was started in 70 AD and the circuit was completed in the 12th century. The wall is 2 miles long and was a nice start of our day.








The walls were heavily damaged during the siege of the city by Parliamentarian forces in 1645, this included two major breaches. The difference in the stone work shows where the walls were repaired.













Along the wall is the Eastgate clock, the most photographed clock in England after Big Ben.





After the walk we stopped in the middle of town for a light lunch at a French restaurant. Well we thought it was going to be a light lunch. We decide to go with a light dinner instead. The French restaurant was on a “Rows” street. They have shops on two floors with a walkway for both.





And then there was black-and-white buildings. Called that because they are black and white.
As you can see the wood work is amazing. 









After a lot of walking we took a break and i thought it would be a  good time to ice the feet. We did not use these for our wine.









Morning breakfast with a view of the race course. We tried black pudding and did not care for it.





For the train ride from Chester to York we would stop at about 15 towns and have to switch trains in Manchester. Most of the towns were very small so it was nice to see a different side of England.
We would get to York at about 1:00 pm, drop what luggage we had at the hotel and start exploring. York was having a food and ale festival, so we scored again with the food. First stop was the Jorvik Viking museum. We seem to be learning more every trip about England, the Vikings had conquered over half of England from 793 AD to 900 AD. Between 1974 and 1981 over 40,000 artifacts were discovered in downtown York.
From there it was time to get something to eat and drink. We bought a bottle of Portuguese wine and then bought a wheel of tapas. The wheel of tapas had 6 different kinds to try, one was baby eel. The first bite was a little difficult but had no problem with the rest of it.





We also had Yorkshire pudding. For most of us that are not English it’s not the pudding you’re thinking of. Yorkshire pudding is made with flour eggs and a little milk and poured in a pan of meat drippings and put in the oven to cook. They added meat to the one we got, it was very, very good!!





Next stop was the Minster, the largest Gothic church this side of the Alps. The present building was begun in about 1230 and completed in 1472






Some of the stain glass dates back to the 12th century. This wall of glass was made in 1260 and  has over 100,000 pieces of glass,

The west window built in 1338


outside view

Choir area



There is a building connected to the main building called the Chapter house. The traditional meeting place of the governing body (or chapter)


Sculptured heads above the canopies, representing some of the finest Gothic sculpture in the country. There are human heads, no two alike, and some pulling faces; angels; animals and grotesques. They date back to 1280.



The one stain glass wall we wanted to see was the east wall. There are 311 panels that are scenes from the bible and is the size of a tennis court. It was out getting cleaned the day we were there.  They are doing a major restoration of the window and it had been completely dismantled. The Glass was being cleaned (they had a picture of they using Q-tips to clean the glass)  and restore any color to it. They also have to replace up to 3,500 stones that hold the panels in place. 


We left the Minster and walked to a street called the Shambles, and the way the buildings looked it fit the road perfectly. 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Shambles


This house was built in 1316, note the height of the door way. I think there were a lot of short people in the 1300's.



Another house with a lean, maybe a trip to the pub will help with the lean.


York also has a wall that went around the city. Some of the wall has been torn down but we were able to walk about a mile on this section.




The last bit of history we saw is Cliffords Tower.

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/cliffords-tower-york/history/

Kind of surprising they even let us walk around the walls, as you can see its old. The tower was part of York castle and long ago there was a moat around it. 






After that it would be another train ride home, it was a great weekend.



















Monday, September 21, 2015

Stratford Upon Avon

A couple of new things before I talk about our trip to Stratford Upon Avon. I met up with a group of Americans that get together once a week to try out different pubs. Like myself they have also accompanied there wives, spouses or significant others over to England.  They call themselves the "STUDS" Spouses Trailing Under Duress Successfully. Along with the once a week meeting they also plan other things like tours and sporting events. At the last meeting they mention something about renting a tank to drive around. As you can see they seem like a fun bunch of guys.



On to Stratford, William Shakespeare home town.
As you can see we do have to walk a bit and climb a few stairs (well Leanne climbed the stairs) before we got to the train station. Dogs have to be carried on the escalator and Coach doesn't like to be carried.


London has a lot of train stations, this one is Marylbone. It is the fourth one we have been to since we started out weekend travels. All have a antique beauty to them.  



The American Fountain/Clock was a gift to the town from a millionaire Philadelphian, George W. Childs in 1887 to mark Queen Victoria’s Golden Jubilee. This was in one of the town squares that was having a farmers market the day we were there.


There are many building that date to the 15th century, some look a rougher than others.


There was a food festival going on the weekend we were there. For a modest price we could do a  food or ale tasting tour. We had Coach and dogs aren't allowed in restaurants so the food tour was out. They are allowed in pubs, so the ale tour was on.  


British equivalent to a dollar store.



The Ale tour was basically a pub crawl the first place we went to was on the left and the next was just across the street.  For 5 pounds ( about $8) we got 11 half pints of Ale, some were fairly strong while others were on the mild side. 

Leanne with a few of the locals.


Where i am standing is Harvard house built in 1596. It was owned by Thomas Rogers the Grandfather of John Harvard, the founder of Harvard university. The building on the left is the Guild Chapel it begun in 1269 by the Guild of the Holy Cross. The nave and the tower date from 1495.  The building just beyond the Chapel is the school that Shakespeare reputedly received his education.



Our fourth Ale stop, did i mention that the ale's over here are room temp. 


Our next stop was the Windmill Inn it holds the longest unbroken licence in Stratford dating from Shakespeare’s time. This house was built in 1599 and became an ale house a year later. 






 People back then were a little shorter than they are now. As you can see Leanne would have no problem with door height. I on the other hand have to walk bent over a lot.



This house is called Hall’s Croft. It was built in the 17th century and was home to Susanna, Shakespeare’s daughter, and her husband Dr John Hall. A very beautiful house with lots of detail in the construction.


Lots of swans


The manually powered chain ferry was opened in 1937, It was the last of its kind to be built in Britain. It looks like a bicycle chain connected from one side to the other. The operator on the ferry runs a hand crank to bring the ferry over.


A  view of the river Avon

Another house that was built in the 15th century, as you can see it has settled a bit.


And its always nice to see that the English people like our dog Coach. Although he was wondering where his bed was.

 A view of  Holy Trinity Church. There has been a church on this site since Saxon times.  The earliest parts of this building date from the 13th century. It is home of the grave of William Shakespeare.





On the right another one of the many locks that are in England.



Sunday was a day for Dragon boat racing. There were just two boats and at least 12 teams and they would race about a 1/4 of a mile. The person in the back steered it and the person in the front had a drum that he/she would beat so the rowers could keep time. As they went by they would count out loud "1", " 2", "1" "2". A few of them were getting there count off and it looked like they skipped a few beats.




This house is William Shakespeare’s Birthplace, built in the 16th century



This house showed a section on how they were built. After the post and beam went up they filled in the walls with woven sticks and then covered with plaster.



After that it was back to the train for a 2 hour ride back to London. We made several stops along the way and the train started filling up to standing room only. There was a big rugby match going on and they were all going to Wembley stadium. The stop before we got off was the stadium and almost everyone got off. 

We still had to grab the Tube for the rest of the trip. It was a little easier for Leanne this time.

Yes i still took the elevator.